A few days ago I found this on eBay which lead me to google the authenticity of this piece. Turns pout to be a fantasy dial, bit behind this fantasy was a little truth in history.
In the 1920s, when rolex was small and their movements were not made inhouse, they had a non compete clause with Gruen with whom they shared the movement supplier. Rolex sold throughout Europe, Asia and the British Empire; whilst the Gruen brothers sold in the US only. All was well till Rolex's acquisition of the oyster case patent.
This three way partnership prohibited Rolex from selling their products with Aegler movement in the Gruen brothers' territory (and vice-versa). So Hans of Rolex, being shrewd and clever, fitted their new Oyster cases with a movement from Fontmelon. His idea was brilliant but the execution wasn't.
Abercrombie & Fitch,this was an upscale store specialising in sportsman's' equipment - remember that this was a lifestyle for the rich back then. Abercrombie and Fitch was cutting edge, they used product placement in movies before the term was mainstream. The outfitted Charles Lindhberg in the 1920s for his non stop flight across the pond. This was the place you came to to outfit for your fishing trip or your safari in Africa.....the place you went to for all your equipment. So on paper, this seemed the ideal place to sell the first oyster watches, with 2 major exceptions.
- Rolex sold the cheaper down-market version of their watches in a high end store - think chrome plated brass.
- Abercrombie & Fitch did not advertise the watch extensively.
Oh what I would sell to get my hands on one of these few surviving A&F rolex oysters. I have scoured the web and found only 1 photo
As such, the business relationship between the 2 did not last as A&F moved on to Heuer and Rolex moved on to Zell Brothers.
* credit to various sources over the Internet. Please feel free to restate any missed facts.
