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Hello again from Lithuania (and my builds from ur-HF)

Posted: May 31st, 2018, 3:25 pm
by spade_lt
Hello again everybody :)

As You probably know already, I'm spade_lt (that's LT, not IT ;) ). I was member of the original HF since Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:56 am (although at first I was just a lurker and became (more) active only in the beginning of the 2013).
I'm not the most prolific builder - since that time I've built only some 20 watches... a few of which were described on HF. That's actually the reason for this thread - I decided to reupload those builds here, so that they will not be lost when ur-HF goes dark.

And as a part of introduction... some of You might still remember this (originally posted Fri Jun 14, 2013 8:55 am): :mrgreen:
spade_lt wrote:They say, that the way to get "clean" begins, when you admit that you have a problem :wtf:. So let me say it at the begining: I'm an addict :roll:

When a new member joins the HF we like to joke "welcome to addiction..." and "it's worse than drugs..." and so on. Funny, yes? :twisted:
But when I look at me from the side... sometimes it's not so funny anymore :lolno:

Something like a month ago I sold my two 616's, because, well... sometimes you have to pay household bills ;)
But a few weeks passed, I got salary and... promptly bought a 616. Well, actually bought two of those... and a 620 for a good measure. And I will not mention the art deco, the unitas285 and Iskra movts I bought too... to say nothing about all the parts (cases, dials etc) and tools...
And yes I have a really good rationalizations for all of these purchases... "the price was just to good to pass"... "I really really need that one... don't know for what, but really need"...
If a week pases and I have nothing in the post, I feel... empty... drained... And worse... I have something like 9 projects (if I didn't forget something)... and I'm starting new ones before I finish the old... :cry:


So my proposal is: we need to establish self help group "Watchmakers Anonymous" before it's to late for us all...
"Hello, my name is Audrius. I am an addict."


:lol: :mrgreen:

Re: Hello again from Lithuania (and my builds from ur-HF)

Posted: May 31st, 2018, 3:27 pm
by spade_lt
Buren Grand Prix into a wristwatch - originally uploaded on Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:39 am
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This is not a homage, so I'm puting it here... (sorry for the quality of the photos - I'm still learning).

Case: Alpha 1993 titanium 44.5mm
Movement: Buren Cal.30 (Grand Prix) ~38mm dia
Dial: Stock, "sterilized" by me (IRL if you look very closely and catch the light correctly, you can still see the outline of the numbers sideways :) ) with all the blemishes of the age :). Was to big, had to file it down slightly (the minute hand barelly fits, even with the nose bent down the distance to the case is still something like 0.2mm)
Hands: stock blued
Stem: modified 6497 - turned down using needle file and a drill as a lathe :D
Movement "ring" made from a piece of expired credit card :lol:

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Re: Hello again from Lithuania (and my builds from ur-HF)

Posted: May 31st, 2018, 3:30 pm
by spade_lt
Brass and Silver originally uploaded Mon Jul 15, 2013 11:34 am
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Nobody would accuse me of never ever biting more than I could chew :mrgreen:. Somehow it happens so, that most of my projects fall in this category :lolno:. Ok, obviosly I'm neither neckyzips nor nicewatchdude (I imagine for them my "projects" would be walk in park on sunny sunday ;) ), but for me the watch projects I undertake are sometimes best described as "two steps forward - three steps back" :lol:... and this really doesn't help the motivation.

Anyway, to help keep me motivated I decided to take a pause from those more "complicated" projects and make something simpler.

So here You see the project "Brass and Silver" (or as I call it "a Steamer"). It's a homage in the broadest sense of the word - Homage to the XIX century, industrial revolution and steam power 8-). It is rather feminine so will be worn by my wife and not by me (or so she claims... but who I am to contradict her? :lolno:)

Description:
Case: 42.5mm brass pilot (as sold by Juri Levenberg etc), plating removed by me.
Caseback: Stock caseback customized to a see through (34mm glass / 32.5mm aperture). I left the back of the caseback plated - I think it looks nice with the contrasting brass "ring" at the edge of the rear glass (plus hopefully there will be less problems with possible allergies etc)
Movement: 3601 Iskra with 17 jewels and Breguet overcoil - I know it's not the most popular Molnia movement, but actually that's my favorit Molnia. When I started the project I thought about using the 3608 and making it a pilot watch, but then when I decided to use this particular dial it "asked" for more "elaborate" movement. So Iskra it is (btw. Iskra means spark, and I think that most people have no idea what is it refering to - why "The Spark"? That's actually reference to this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iskra - first socialistic newspaper (at least that was claimed by communist party of USSR)).
And some info for those, who are thinking about brass pilot project using this case: using 3601 without dial, movement fits, stem height is perfect (i.e. You have to go for "gaposis"); 3602 is too thick (stem height is to high); 3608 - stem height is ok (the same as 3601), but it doesn't fit under stock caseback - caseback has to be modified to a see through with a slighly domed rear glass... or a new caseback made.
Dial: Vintage (= very old) english solid silver. Bought some time ago with a non working english XIX century pocket watch movement for only 11gbp (incl. shipping) :angel: . It's small at 34mm, but for this project it was just perfect.
Hands: Late(r) model Molnia. Actually that's the part of the project I'm least satisfied with. I have 5 different molnia hand sets and none fit this dial... these fit the best although they are far from perfect. They are slowly growing on me, but I would still like something like blued breguet style hands... only they are impossible to find, because the dial asks for really short hands (~15mm min / ~11mm hour) (well, short for a Molnia at least).
Stem: 0.9mm Molnia stem from ussrwatch. Crown is epoxied to the stem.
Movement "ring" made from a piece of expired credit card as in my earlier Buren project :lol:
Strap: old finnish strap from trendart-24
Buckle: stainless buckle heat "bronzed"

On to the photos:

Tried to take a photo of the watch with my late grandmothers iron (which is actually 15 years older than me but still in working condition (although nowadays it's never used, obviously :) )), but decided that it doesn't fit stylistically / coloristically (if there is such a word 8-) ), so in other photos You can see a thuja from my front yard :)
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Re: Hello again from Lithuania (and my builds from ur-HF)

Posted: May 31st, 2018, 3:31 pm
by spade_lt
Watch for my dad with the Longines L878.4 movt originally uploaded Thu Aug 15, 2013 9:17 am
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This is the watch I made for my dad. It is basically a dress watch, so I'm posting it here in "non-homages".

I had the idea to make a watch for my dad something like half a year ago. It had to be a dress watch (he does not wear watches everyday, so no sense making everyday watch).
It was a pretty long process and I changed my mind quite a few times: at first I intended to use Longines L878.4 movement (it had to be a Longines - look lower)... but then changed my mind and decided to go for unmarked (sterile) gilt (Longines) 17.89, even bough a case for this movement from Ukraine. Then changed my mind back again - decided to use L878.4 and bought another watch case this time from China. Ideas on the dial changed a few times too - at first I thought about a very classic black on white dial... then changed my mind to gilt on black... in the end decided to use the dial which came with the movement - it is so nice that it would have been a shame to scrap it.
About the inscription on the dial. My fathers name is Lionginas (basically Longinus trancribed to lithuanian) which sounds/writes almost like Longines, so the idea was to inscribe it on the dial. At first I though of writing it in the same font Longines is using in Avigation, but then decided to have it written in my dads handwriting, and asked my mom to get him to write his name without (obviously) telling him why. I don't know what she told him, but after a few weeks she gave me a piece of paper where my dad has written (in lithuanian) "Lionginas loves Aldona very very very much" :D

Description:
Case: chinese 44mm pilot/dress case (from ebay seller wangxiaohong). Top and bottom polished, sides are brushed.
Movement: Longines L878.4. At the moment that's the only Longines mechanical movement which isn't based on ETA. It's based on Longines 37.9ABC which was made in the first half of XX century, so a real inhouse Longines movement.
Stem: modified the 6497 stem to fit this movement. Took some time to modify, but seems to work nicely. (I have actually bought an original replacement stem for this movement, but in the end did not use it)
Crown: mini fiddy style crown from the same ebay seller - my dad doesn't like pilot style crowns.
Movement "ring" made from a piece of expired credit card as it is usual for me - maybe not very sexy, but when you need a really thin ring it's somewhat complicated to make, but the plastic is really easy to work with, and if you screw it up, jost throw it away and start anew.
Dial: came with the movement, "Longines" removed, laser engraved "Lionginas" instead. Had to reduce the diameter of the dial to fit in the case, so a lot of filing was necessary to fit it.
Hands: stock Longines
Strap: dark brown real camel.

The photos (sorry for the quality - the watch had protection film on the front and the back, therefore in some photos it looks like it has some blemishes on glass and/or case):

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And a group photo of three watches:
Pocket watch is a Longines which belonged to my grand-grand-dad (he left it for my dad). He was not a wealthy person so, as I understand, this watch although not fancy, was a prized possesion. So when I was buying myself a watch for my 35th birthday, I bought a Longines Ultronic. I know it's a really weird choice 8-) but I like tuning fork watches :ugeek: and it had to be a Longines... And making a watch for my dad it had to have a Longines movement too.

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Re: Hello again from Lithuania (and my builds from ur-HF)

Posted: May 31st, 2018, 3:34 pm
by spade_lt
Big Pilot 'Elapsed Time' originally uploaded Fri Aug 30, 2013 2:55 pm
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This is my most ambitious / complicated (finished) project up to date.
When I look at it now, it seems exceedingly simple (as it always does when you look at the finished project) when in fact there was a lot of work. In the process I installed and removed the movement from the case something like 40 times... if not more.

Behold!!! :mrgreen:

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Tried to do an artsy photo :D but it became clear that for me (with my skills and equipment) it's not possible, because the plexi throws reflections like crazy (even when using polarised filter) - other photos are way simpler.


From the begining (of my interest in watchmaking) I knew that I wanted to make a real big pilot, of the real B-uhr size - 55mm. So I bought the case set (actually the whole (automatic) watch) from Jackson and started thinking about how to proceed. Some of You might remember the thread I started some time ago about the movements with central seconds. As we all know there aren't to many (not to say 'any') pocket watch size movements with central seconds (at reasonable prices, I might add).

Most popular (for a good reason) is 3608, but it's only 36mm in diameter. I wanted something bigger.
Why? Well, because... originale Beobachtungsuhren were big watches for a reason - they used big movements with indirect central seconds:
Lange used Cal. 48/1, which is 48mm, that's 21+ lignes (Lange prototypes used in development of B-uhr used Cal. 45 which is 20 lignes);
IWC used Cal. 52T SC, which was 19 lignes;
Laco used Durowe Cal. D5 which was 22 lignes;
Stowa used Unitas (Tramelan) Cal. 2812 which was 18 lignes;
Wempe used Thommen Cal. 31 which was almost 19 lignes.
You can notice that the smallest movement was 18 lignes... compared to that 3608 is only 16 lignes :(

I could say I was lucky because at that time Blackmonkey was selling a clock from the Mig photo cannon (a cannon used in training instead of the actual (real) guns). It's either from Mig-15 or Mig-17.

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(photo by http://hampdenwatches.blogspot.com/)

Sorry, I didn't take any photos of the watch I bought, but it looked exactly like this (only markings on the movement are different). And this is how the whole camera looks like...

This movement is a modified Soviet Type-1. Type-1 was the first movement made in the Soviet Russia (at least in big quantities). Production started in 1930. On the base of that movement there were made central seconds and even chronograph variations.
The story of this movement is pretty interesting (and if You are interested I recommend You reading abovementioned page http://hampdenwatches.blogspot.com/).
In a few words: after the october revolution there was no watch production in USSR and soviets were on the lookout for the possible solution to this problem. At the time american company Hampden-Dueber became bankrupt. Soviets used the moment to purchase all the production facilities. So soviet Type-1 is basically a Hampden-Dueber model 5, but with utilitarian finish and not made to a high standard.

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'Normal' Type-1 movement compared to central second modification.

CS movement has 16 jewels set in chatons (later Type-1 movements dispense with them, as You can see in the photo). Production date on the case is 4-58, but considering that central second conversions are post-production, the base movement was probably made earlier (there is no production date on the movement). Another notable thing about this movement is that it is made in the Chistopol factory - all other central second Type-1 I have seen were from Zlatoust (basic Type-1's were made by 4 factories: Moscow 1st and 2nd, Zlatoust and Chistopol).

The movement is american size 16 which translates to 19 and 1/4 lignes - pretty good size for a B-uhr movement, I think ;). Here it is compared to the 3608:

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Slightly bigger? :D

But that's exactly the problem with this movement - it's BIG. Not only diameter is big (which is not a problem in this case) but the thickness of the movement including the dial are full 10 milimeters. And the internal height of the case is only ~7.8mm :?. Additionally, the stem height of the movement is ~0.75mm to high for the case...

So, I started thinking and measuring.
Turning the dial surface on the lathe (i.e. recessing the dial mounting surface) so that stem height is right would give me 7.8mm + 0.8mm = 8.6mm internal height
Caseback was 1.4mm thick. Converting it to see throught would add at least half of the thickness: 8.6mm + 0.7mm = 9.3mm
But that means that I still lack 0.7mm. To get these last tenths it was necessary to use a domed rear glass.

So the case was modified accordingly.
Recessing the dial surface by 0.8mm created the problem that the rehaut on which the plexi and the bezel are mounted was left hanging on the hair so to say - on the thinnest (probably less than 0.1mm) strip of metal... The plexi and the bezel had to be epoxied onto the case for safety / strenght.
Caseback was modified to a see through. Glass size is 43mm domed superthin mineral. It nicely follows the curve of the caseback (sorry, forgot to take a photo from the side).

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Custom brass movement ring was made for the movement. It was made to high with the idea that it could be filed to fit perfectly - now the movement ring holds the movement in place and is itself held in place by the caseback.
Case wasn't reshaped although I'm still thinking about maybe slightly reshaping (rounding) the lugs...

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While these modifications were made there was a question of the dial. I thought about making a custom dial... or maybe just using a stock dial which came with the case. But then I noticed a Waltham Elapsed Time (to be exact Waltham Type W12 Model 22222-S-ET-12 8 Day :geek: ) dial on the ebay. It's from the clock which measures elapsed flight time (at least as much as I understand). The clock was used in Grumman F9F Panther.

I really liked the idea. On the one hand 'Elapsed Time' on the dial of the watch reminds of the 'memento mori'. On the other hand, there is something ironic and cool about the watch in which the movement was intended for the soviet fighter and the dial was intended for american counterpart 8-)

I glued 3 tiny screws onto the dial so that it looks as if it is screwed onto the movement (as it is in the aircraft clock) :)

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Ok, what else?
Some details.

Crown. I tried to source another crown, but in the end used the one which came with the case - epoxied a stem extention into the crown which in turn was screwed onto the stem. Although drawing which is available on the internet shows the crown size of 10mm, in fact all the (photos of the) B-uhrs I have measured had the crowns of ~12mm size and I was not able to find crown of this size which would fit.

Hands. I tried to find the hands which would fit the dial, even tried the hands from another 8day aircraft clock which I had, but in the end decided to use the hands which came with the base watch. I'm not fully satisfied with them so in the future I'll probably change them, but for now they are what they are. Although the lenght is pretty much perfect, they are to narrow imho.
Minute and hour hands were broached to fit the movement and the second hand is epoxied onto the stock (very short) hand which came with the movement. Hands are painted using my wifes nail polish :) Seconds hand has a red tip...

And the last thing - strap buckle is reshaped by me :D. It was of the pre-V style which didn't fit the watch, so I reshaped the sides to make them straight (and the buckle square).

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There still are quite a few things about this watch with which I'm not satisfied - some of which will (probably) be fixed by me at a later date... others are non fixeable, so I will have to just get used to them :lol:

Thank You if You had the patience to read this overlong post :twisted:
And in the end a few additional photos:

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And a side profile shot of the caseback, which I forgot to take yesterday:

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Re: Hello again from Lithuania (and my builds from ur-HF)

Posted: May 31st, 2018, 3:37 pm
by spade_lt
BIG 3 (B&R + Art deco) originally uploaded Sun Nov 09, 2014 12:45 pm
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Last weekend (or was it it a weekend before that? :? ) I finished two builds - this is one of them (will post the second one some time later - G (Akva) has already seen it, so he can vouch that it should be interesting 8-) ).

Anyway. This build started long time ago - the first time I saw an art deco movement. When I saw it, I heard it asking for a B&R case :mrgreen: - all those round and square forms - if any movement ever was intended for any case, then this one for that one :geek:. And then when my friend over a beer mentioned that he would like me to make him a watch, but he (somehow) likes then square - all was set 8-)
The hunt for a movement began. At first I bought a 9 jewels Mimo (the one I just recently sold), but then I couldn't stop and bought a few more - this one is last and best one - Rodana with 15 jewels and incabloc.

Onto the description:

Case set: Black PVD B&R from Jackson. I actually wanted a plain stainless, but Jackson had only these (and only later I found out that Parnisshop has them without plating). Rear caseback was sterilised ('Parnis' removed along with the plating). Movement at 38.6mm is to big for the case and the insides had to be dremeled out for fit (takes a lot of time when you have to remove 1.5mm of steel :evil: )... but now no movement is ring needed - fit is perfect. Case is front loader. Crown is stock.
Movement: As mentioned Rodana art deco, 15 jewels, incabloc. Stem is stock it's 1.2mm. Very beautifull (You can't see all the beauty in the photos - it just shines :) ).
Btw.: there are two sizes of art deco movements - big and small. Big one is 38.6mm in diameter and 4.4mm thick and the small one 36.1mm and 3.7mm (maybe this info will be useful to somebody).
Dial: An experiment. Made by laser engraving company. It's aluminium and coated with some sort of black paint which then is removed by laser to get needed markings. Should be really durable according to said company.
Hands: Ross short brass angelus hands (hour hand is squared off), painted using some Tamiya matt paint. No lume. Fit is tight - there is probably less than 0.1mm from the seconds hand to the hour and from the hour to the minute.
Strap: Old baseball glove strap made by Igor (I76). Strapjunkie buckle.

A few of the photos (sorry for the dust on the crystal - the protection film is still there so it (dust) sticks).

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Re: Hello again from Lithuania (and my builds from ur-HF)

Posted: May 31st, 2018, 3:40 pm
by spade_lt
BIG(GER) Crown! originally upluaded Thu Nov 27, 2014 11:30 am
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My crowntube is bigger than Your crown!!! :mrgreen:

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First things first - I should thank tictoctach, because this was his idea to use U-boat case for the 8 day Majestic. At the begining of this build, my idea was to use Unitas 231 (bigger / older brother of 6497), but after reading ttt's thread I changed my mind ;)

Description:

Case set: modified U-boat case set. Case lugs were rounded slightly. Canteen cap which covers the crown was removed; new, very big (length - 6.3mm, outer diameter - 7.8mm, inner (hole) diameter - 4.6mm) crown tube was made from stainless steel and then laser welded to the case. Caseback internal diameter was increased so that movement fits inside it ant the size of the back crystal was increased to 40mm so that more of the movement is seen.
Custom made brass movement ring.

Crown: I thought for a long time what to do with the crown (consideredd having one custom made?), because I really disliked the stock canteen cap design - it sticks to much and bites into the hand. Then in my drawer I noticed a Tiffany 8 day clock which I got a few years ago: basically I was scammed by the seller - he said that the clock is in non working condition, but all parts are there, when in fact it lacks a lot of essential parts. So now at least a crown from that clock found some use.
Diameter of the crown is 14.2mm in diameter :mrgreen:, but because of the rounded design it doesn't bite at all.
At first I was thinking about maybe nickel plating the crown, but in the end decided against it - anyhow this crown is the main focus point of this watch.
Stem did need some modifications before it fit the crowm, but now seems to work ok.

Movement: Majestic (Revue Thommen / Wittnauer) 15 jewels 8 days twin barrel from the Bigellow Kennard travel clock.

Dial: Custom made. Some sort of low temperature enamel made by Marietta (on ebay). Design of the dial is basic travel clock design.

Hands: stock hands from the travel clock were way to long, so I bought a pair of correctly sized squelette hands on the ebay and then... promptly destroyed them while trying to broach.
After that fail I "borrowed" these spade hands from one of my other travel clocks which actually did fit with almost no broaching. They are mismatched - hour hand is blued, while minute is painted black :) , - I should probably clean that minute hand and reblue it... maybe some day in the future.

Strap: generic pilot strap from trendart-24 which I have vintagized using some emery paper - imho it fits the style quite nicely.

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The only problem which is left is that the movement runs for only 2 days :oops: - probably needs new mainspring(-s)...

Re: Hello again from Lithuania (and my builds from ur-HF)

Posted: May 31st, 2018, 3:46 pm
by spade_lt
"Neglected" 47mm Radiomir with a Howard movt originally uploaded (as a sales thread) Mon May 25, 2015 1:39 pm
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Fantasy Homage made by me.

Specs:
Case – I’m not sure who is the maker, but it’s 47mm Radi. Extensively abused by me (FeCl3, then files/sandpaper, then again FeCl3… rinse and repeat). Crown is OP marked (I didn’t vintagize it – left it as is, because I didn’t want to risk destroying it after I destroyed a buckle 8-) ). Wire lugs are laser welded to the case (welds on the top side only). Screw holes laser filled.
Dial – very nice crackled dial by Amuthon :thumbup: . Has a “ring of fire” spacer to line up the stem.
Hands – rmcsherry, modified to fit / lumed by me.
Strap – swiss ammo (from 1965) 115/75mm. Mildly vintagized buckle (like I mentioned, I destroyed one buckle after soaking it for to long in FeCl3, so got way more careful with this one).
Movement – Howard 10s, 17 jewels, serviced by our Yoda :thumbup: . One of the most beautiful movements ever (imho).

Details: I made this one for myself – wanted to make one of those “neglected” builds. Finished it more than a month ago, but never did wear it and probably never will. It was The hardest project I have ever made until now. Hardest not in the sense “most complicated” (others were way more complicated), but it came with a lot of fight – although seemingly simple it took a lot of doing and redoing and redoing and adjusting and adjusting to finally finish it. In the end I love it but I hate it, so I’ve let it go for the price of the parts/services.
The watch is in no way perfect – it’s quite the opposite. Case is scratched, strap is scratched, both crystals are scratched, hands are scratched, dial is cracked, lume is bad etc… everything is abused, everything is imperfect – that’s the idea behind it.

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Re: Hello again from Lithuania (and my builds from ur-HF)

Posted: May 31st, 2018, 3:50 pm
by spade_lt
My first Seiko... [Railroad watch] originally uploaded Sun Jul 02, 2017 7:18
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Never planned to have a Seiko, but here it is - my first Seiko :)
It's not a diver, so not quite the usual fare here, but hope you'll find it interesting. The strap is cork, btw.

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tic wrote:
burauzaa wrote:I like the knurled crown. Never seen that model before.
+1

Which ref.no. is it?
7550-0010 ;)

Yes, it's a build (conversion from pocketwatch to wristwatch, to be more exact) 8-)

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Re: Hello again from Lithuania (and my builds from ur-HF)

Posted: May 31st, 2018, 4:01 pm
by Emilio
Thanks for saving all the posts and moving them to the new forum :slightly_smiling_face: