Homage Forum

Hi People, as everyone knows, I have spent years in the process and development of different parts of the angelus 240 and cortebert 616 calibers. All these years have been part of learning and improvement in both the production processes and the finishing of the parts.
I would like to share some photos from the manufacturing and finishing process. It occurs to me that it would be entertaining to delve into the processes involved in the production of each of the pieces. Although there are some that are easier to produce, there are others that, despite being simpler and less expensive, take longer production time.
If someone is interested or has doubts regarding certain processes, I have no problem answering them.
If someone is interested I can also do a tutorial for the assembly and cleaning service of some a240 or 616 caliber, as well as a tutorial for the installation of KW to SW kit or upper bridge.
Attentive to your comments and suggestions.

Metal endcap:


From low to high grit bevel, then polish.

Center polish.




Finished one, its not easy to fit jewel on a very high hard steel. Need to be very hard to get almost mirror polish finish.

Screws Polish, similar method than above.



Glued with shellac or similar.

Final result, shellac disolve on alcohol.

A240 like pam203 style finish.



Design of replacement bridges.

Mmchined bridges finish

File bevel

two sandpaper step bevel before polish



Results after forming bevels (round bevel are difficult than straigh angle bevel) and polish.


Crown Wheel.



Raw gear

Rectify square hole with homemade square broach.


Set lever Screw







Clutch wheel and Winding pinion







Prepared for heat threatment


KW to SW parts





Regards!

Your production is top notch.

So exciting!

All tutorials all welcome

Yoda wrote:Looks good Jorge! I have a few questions, I have seen one of your intermediate bridges and the pin for the setting wheel closest to the stem was only half the height of the two others and was not high enough to keep the wheel in place, the pictures shows that all three are of the same height. Is this a QC issue?

Also, just out of curiousity, are you using CW503L brass - hard, CW508L - soft, or CW612N semi hard? The original SF240 bridges were made of CW503L and could stand a lifetime of use, but I have seen a few of these conversions where the wear was obvious without a loupe and the holes were oval...

Let me join your question regarding brass type. I came across with several converted movements and they had barrel bridges made of very soft brass. I literally could bend it with 2 fingers.


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Screw polish method seems very interesting. The disc on picture is used to hold screws with shellac, that's clear.
Now, do you put disc in lathe first and make small facing cut and then polish all screws at one with diamantine powder or polish compound at flat surface or similar process?


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Yoda wrote: ↑May 11th, 2020, 3:56 pm Looks good Jorge! I only have one question, I have seen one of your intermediate bridges and the pin for the setting wheel closest to the stem was only half the height of the two others and was not high enough to keep the wheel in place, the pictures shows that all three are of the same height. Is this a QC issues?

Also, just out of curiousity, are you using CW503L brass - hard, CW508L - soft, or CW612N semi hard? The original SF240 bridges were made of CW503L and could stand a lifetime of use, but I have seen a few of these conversions where the wear was obvious without a loupe and the holes were oval...

Interesting questions,
1.- If i can see a pic of what you mean will be better but:
Some regular 1mm bridges comes with half or full size pin to hold setting gears. So i asume that the pin you reffer probably was a replacement pin from a gen 1mm bridge, i really dont know. Anyway, as the 1rst and 2nd gear have almost same height that the space between the stem bridge spring (the part that keeps the gears in place and also gives exact position to the set lever mechanism), not possible to the gear to leave that position even with a 1/4 height pin, so i asume someone also mod a regular 1st setting gear from a KW one (like the pci below) and give it incorrect height or incorrect hole size to the gear. Thats the only way that that gear wasnt in place. When i mod those 1st gear with pillar from KW to a hole flat one i make sure to keep same height and hole diameter than gen, so works smoth and dont go anywhere, just turn. Best way to do that was holding the gear from the pillar, making hole then trim axle.
So half or full size pillar must work without problems.




2.- The brass used its cz120, also know as whatchmaker brass, engraving brass, etc. The one you say was differentCW503L (c24000, CuZn20,Cz103/cz104). If youre talking about old conversion, probably was a different brass. Anyway i have seen oval holes on rubies, center brass jewel of 616s, and other and the oval depends on:
A) If the hole have a embosed hole (with flange, ledge), means the material was too soft (incorrect brass that have easy deformation, cold forming), and its because the pressure made by the wheel axis.
B)if the oval holes was "clean" like i see on some old 616 center brass jewels, and also in some glass Jewels , probably by a : B1) bad service oiling, making the shaft or wheel axle roughing the material due too friction or B2) Rusted non polished wheel axle (steel its harder and will works like a abrasive file). Can be a mixture of both things.

I cna show pic of rusted and rough wheel axles i you want.

djolemag wrote: ↑May 11th, 2020, 4:47 pm Screw polish method seems very interesting. The disc on picture is used to hold screws with shellac, that's clear.
Now, do you put disc in lathe first and make small facing cut and then polish all screws at one with diamantine powder or polish compound at flat surface or similar process?
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Hi, i think i know what you mean, some screw batches have small different height, so theres two ways to do.
In pics you see the set lever screws, as i made them i rectify all the measures so all will be almost the same height, just a initial 1200 Grit sandpaper then go down with a 5,3.5, 1. and final diamantine fine.

When i polish the stock bridge screws notices too much difference so instead to put in a direct hole like the set lever screw, i threading all holes so i was able to checking height and adjustmen height with small screw or unscrew to leave all almost same height to start from that. You can also try to put in a base but face down under a rectified surface then when all the same deep you can fixt it to position. There too many ways.

Chileantiques wrote:

djolemag wrote: ↑May 11th, 2020, 4:47 pm Screw polish method seems very interesting. The disc on picture is used to hold screws with shellac, that's clear.
Now, do you put disc in lathe first and make small facing cut and then polish all screws at one with diamantine powder or polish compound at flat surface or similar process?
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Hi, i think i know what you mean, some screw batches have small different height, so theres two ways to do.
In pics you see the set lever screws, as i made them i rectify all the measures so all will be almost the same height, just a initial 1200 Grit sandpaper then go down with a 5,3.5, 1. and final diamantine fine.

When i polish the stock bridge screws notices too much difference so instead to put in a direct hole like the set lever screw, i threading all holes so i was able to checking height and adjustmen height with small screw or unscrew to leave all almost same height to start from that. You can also try to put in a base but face down under a rectified surface then when all the same deep you can fixt it to position. There too many ways.

Thanx for quick reply, really appreciate it
I've been doing so far one by one, fixing in chuck and polish, that gives rounded edge, as most stock screws.
Oldee movements usually have flat top surface and square angled edges. In such case I make first cut on lathe, take it out, put in homemade brass piece as holder and then finally polish on flat surface. Pretty long process if you have mane screws to polish.


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djolemag wrote: ↑May 11th, 2020, 5:19 pm

Chileantiques wrote:

djolemag wrote: ↑May 11th, 2020, 4:47 pm Screw polish method seems very interesting. The disc on picture is used to hold screws with shellac, that's clear.
Now, do you put disc in lathe first and make small facing cut and then polish all screws at one with diamantine powder or polish compound at flat surface or similar process?
Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

Hi, i think i know what you mean, some screw batches have small different height, so theres two ways to do.
In pics you see the set lever screws, as i made them i rectify all the measures so all will be almost the same height, just a initial 1200 Grit sandpaper then go down with a 5,3.5, 1. and final diamantine fine.

When i polish the stock bridge screws notices too much difference so instead to put in a direct hole like the set lever screw, i threading all holes so i was able to checking height and adjustmen height with small screw or unscrew to leave all almost same height to start from that. You can also try to put in a base but face down under a rectified surface then when all the same deep you can fixt it to position. There too many ways.

Thanx for quick reply, really appreciate it
I've been doing so far one by one, fixing in chuck and polish, that gives rounded edge, as most stock screws.
Oldee movements usually have flat top surface and square angled edges. In such case I make first cut on lathe, take it out, put in homemade brass piece as holder and then finally polish on flat surface. Pretty long process if you have mane screws to polish.


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Another options was :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Lorch ... SwHwVerbBs

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Watchmaker-scr ... Sw4~BeeW6x

I have both, but if you will made at least 3 same screws... works the method i show.