What are you working on now?

[djolemag]

Yup, it is 7x12 actually

It was out of my "target" rigidity, squareness and precision, so I started from scratch. Made lot of new parts and mods. Will update with new pics once I finish.

Above many, I made/changed:
scrapping bedways
milling Vee groove on saddle (for about 0.35mm) to make it true and parallel with bed. Actually, saddle was 0.6mm lower on one bed-way, so tool would travel below centerline



new tappered roller bearing in headstock;
new transmission plate and lever with gears for changing direction of driveshaft. Lever is now on front side, much easier for operation;
new drive pulleys, changed to HTD 5M, with brushless DC motor;
5 inch chuck plate;
extended cross slide travel spindle and housing with bearings;
new handwheels on cross slide, apron, tailstock and compound slide; Handwheels have resetable dials now.
all dovetails on saddle and compound slide are milled again to perform much better accuracy and contact surfaces;
Tailstock lever action lock;
saddle lock;
added fixture for motor on cross slide to perform automatic cross feed.
cooling system added, reservoir under the dish plate. It also needed to make some cast iron stand so lathe is now higher about 12 cm...

Bed casting is sandblasted before painting



headstock, saddle and compound plate are brushed on magnetic brush machine to provide true flatness.
Here is machine in action, brushing some other parts....



Made new quick change toolpost (see image) from steel..






It took me last three months

[straps68]

Very impressive work djolemag

Love the white color!

[djolemag]

Thanks!

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[Akvanautas]

After long long time..but still need to wait a little..

IMG-20190910-WA0005.jpg

IMG-20190910-WA0003.jpg

IMG-20190910-WA0001.jpg

[VanSong]

After long long time..but still need to wait a little..

IMG-20190910-WA0005.jpg

IMG-20190910-WA0003.jpg

IMG-20190910-WA0001.jpg

Wow!!! Nice finishing . Did you do it all yourself and is the Triangle pip applied?

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[Akvanautas]

After long long time..but still need to wait a little..

IMG-20190910-WA0005.jpgIMG-20190910-WA0003.jpgIMG-20190910-WA0001.jpg

Wow!!! Nice finishing . Did you do it all yourself and is the Triangle pip applied?

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So far its done by esdee. Triangle pip is entirely machined from solid titanium piece,its not applied. Just shaped and polished.

[VanSong]

After long long time..but still need to wait a little..

IMG-20190910-WA0005.jpgIMG-20190910-WA0003.jpgIMG-20190910-WA0001.jpg

Wow!!! Nice finishing . Did you do it all yourself and is the Triangle pip applied?

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

So far its done by esdee. Triangle pip is entirely machined from solid titanium piece,its not applied. Just shaped and polished.

Congrats!!! It is a stunner. It's worth the wait, IMHO.

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[deneverember]

I think I just felt it move. Details on this please.

Independent seconds / second morte ( dead beat seconds ) pocket watch movement.

Basically it has two seconds hands. One working as usual, the other
- the center seconds - steps in one second increments like a quartz watch does.

This function works from the crown pusher, so it can be stopped and re-engaded
and is powered by a second mainspring thus the double barrel design.

Looks a 29 jewels one, but haven't really counted after yet.

The size is comfortable compared to the bigger ones.
It fits comfortably in this worked-over chinese Zenith Type 20 style 44.5mm case
I had turned-reworked for a Longines chronometer movement a few years back.

[bmsm]

I'm thinking on that, still not sure. I'm buying the tools . If you know some basic kit for this would be helpful.

-only you need are 2 needle, for sewing

-I use 1mm waxcord

that is what I’m using, but maybe the professional strap maker can advise better tools

1mm round or flat? 1mm round is very thick thread. 1mm flat is ~1x0.5 mm so it's not as high, which many would prefer but it's a different look.

@bmsm Don't go crazy buying too many tools. Here's what you need to make a strap:

Cutting surface - self healing mats are good.
Cutter - I use various Olfa blades because they are the sharpest I've ever seen.
Steel ruler.
Some kind of contact cement. Tube will ususally say it's good for leather. Something called Shoe Glue will usually be a transparent contact cement. If you're doing a full stitch, then the glue is not very important and you don't need to use a lot.
The hole puncher tafari suggeted is fine. I'd say no bigger than 4mm.
Needles should be blunt tipped.
A compass to mark the stitch line so the stitch is straight.

Didn't went crazy and just bought the basics
Thanks @tafari and @straps68.

Now just need to let the fun begin

[djolemag]

Cleaning some really dirty movement... I was shocked when I saw this.
Btw, it is Elma cleaning solution, should be clear, not like yogurt...

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