Plating

[Yoda]

that is cheap! local guy?... great to make those oxidized bridge plates look brand new!

I always noticed all jewels are removed, exception on the gear train bridge, the raised jewel collars ... those cannot be removed?

Regarding the oxidized plates, these were made here not long ago, I had a CAD made a few years back. I made the first barrel plate by hand, but it was too much work and time involved.

[thelonedoc]

I bet it would work in reverse too if the plating was very very thin, but I would imagine it is easier to get consistant results if you add the pattern to the plating. Harder to control plating accurately when it comes to fine details.

Again I am no expert and I am guessing based on a couple unspecific YouTube videos that showed watchmakers building high end watches. It is also comming from memory, which is also highly unreliable.

I feel like it makes sense though.

[Yoda]

I have a little more plating in the pipeline, so I may ask him to do it again.

[TimemiT]

my 240's are nickel plated finish

Maybe for crisp cdg you need to do a thick plating first and then carefully add cdg. Any time I have seen swiss watch makers add decorative finishes, I am almost positive it has been to the nickle, not to the bare brass.

[Yoda]

my 240's are nickel plated finish

Maybe for crisp cdg you need to do a thick plating first and then carefully add cdg. Any time I have seen swiss watch makers add decorative finishes, I am almost positive it has been to the nickle, not to the bare brass.

Yes, I think it is the correct plating to use. Some of the early plates from Jorge were easily tarnished and it was impossible to remove the dark spots from handling them.

[Yoda]

I am going to have it redone, it appears that the plating facility plated this to withstand the most aggressive environment.
First step is chrome, then nickel and finished with a thin layer of chrome...
It kills the pattern completely.
I am aiming for the thinnest layer of medium shiny nickel and nothing else.
I hope that the next time will be better, update to follow.

[djolemag]

I am going to have it redone, it appears that the plating facility plated this to withstand the most aggressive environment.
First step is chrome, then nickel and finished with a thin layer of chrome...
It kills the pattern completely.
I am aiming for the thinnest layer of medium shiny nickel and nothing else.
I hope that the next time will be better, update to follow.

Chrome is killing your CdG pattern. Try nickel only (means copper then nickel of course).
For rhodium you need really really clean and prepared surface, with finished CdG and then plated over.
Frankly, I tried only with Perlage and rhodium, not bad at all. Here is example of pure nickel (untouched) vs slightly polished surface (not perfect) with rhodium finish.

nickel vs rhodium.jpg

[Yoda]

Yes, I asked for rhodium and the potato head used chrome, nickel and chrome.....

[djolemag]

Chrome is great for guns but too thick for movements...

[TimemiT]

great info here! ... so my understanding ...

1. rhodium is thinnest, most accurate finish on these old movements? ... but will it oxide again over time?
2. nickle is 2nd and maybe best option? ... but you start to lose brush and CDG circular details due to it applied thicker?
3. chrome ... well ... that stuff is for trailer hitches and motorcycles